Returning to Kitchen Conversations, I’d love to introduce you to Wil Hansen.

I first met Wil through a fellow Full Diet member, and not long after, I had the chance to attend one of his Kitchen Counter Dinners. As someone who spends so much time cooking, it’s a genuine gift to sit on the other side of the table—to enjoy food that has been prepared with intention and plated with creativity.

Over the coming weeks, I’ll continue sharing conversations with chefs whose cooking inspires me. Since one of this week’s recipes is one part dairy one part creativity, it felt like the perfect opportunity to ask Wil about one of the details that stood out most during his dinner: his use of cultured dairy.

Mel: Dairy appeared throughout the menu in subtle but delicious ways (although I will say that Sarahlee and I were the only ones in our area who polished off their butter dish). If I remember correctly, many of those elements were cultured by you, not store bought—the yogurt, butter, and cultured cream.

Can you talk a little about your use of cultured dairy and what it brings to a dish? I’m familiar with compound butters, but less so with savory yogurt preparations. Are there particular herbs or flavor combinations you find yourself returning to?

Wil: Using cultured components is a fantastic way to bring depth of flavor that you might not encounter at many restaurants, or at home. Its a way that I can bring some interesting technique to the menu – as long as it applies to the season and the menu arc.

Personally, herbs and alliums are my favorite inclusions in compound butters, yogurts, or creams. When considering the theme of the menu, I knew that dairy components were going to be a contributing factor all around – and like so many of my menus, I’m constantly thinking of how to take things one step further in an unexpected, but approachable direction. Culturing cream on my own – and using those components was a fun way to change things up!

After reading this, I found myself looking at the quart of plain yogurt in my refrigerator a little differently. This week’s recipe is a great place to start experimenting